Just when we thought the volcano craze was bubbling down and our Icelandic lives could once again be consumed by IceSave, banksters and corruption, a second volcano started brewing – this time under neighbouring Eyjafjallajökull glacier.

Eyjafjallajökull: Iceland’s tourist lockdown

It’s not every day you get to see a volcano erupting. In fact, it’s not every lifetime you get to see a volcano erupting. And we have now had two eruptions in the last month. Although the new Eyjafjallajökull eruption may very well be connected to the Fimmvörðuháls eruption, something is definitely stirring in Mother Earth these days.

The new eruption has kicked up a large cloud of ash, which can be seen sitting ominously above the glacier. Westerly winds have also carried the ash to northern Europe, paralyzing air traffic for the second day in a row. About 17,000 flights have already been cancelled, according to a CNN report. What’s more, nobody knows how long these disruptions will continue, which depends on both the volcano and the changing wind patterns.

Aside from spewing toxic ash and sending off glacial flooding over the southern flatlands, as Grapevine’s resident volcanologist James Ashworth points out, there won’t be much magma action for us volcano hungry types to feast on – at least not on the ground. Because the volcano is below the glacier, it is far too dangerous to be in the path of potential flooding.

Fimmvörðuháls: Iceland’s tourist eruption

Right about now I’m glad I didn’t waste any time to check out the Fimmvörðuháls eruption, because not only has it stopped erupting, but it was also quite a unique opportunity to come within 200 metres of an erupting volcano.

Although it was admittedly an amusement park-like scene with all kinds of rides – super jeeps, snowmobiles, ATVs and helicopters – it was still quite a geologically thrilling experience to stand so close to a fissure shooting up molten rock. Those who didn’t make it there are probably kicking themselves right now.

Yet thousands of people did make it and many went to great lengths (literally) to do so. In fact, its likely that never before have so many people in Iceland decided to embark on a 30.5-kilometre (19 mile) hike up Fimmvörðuháls from Skógar, which is the way I went. The ten to eleven hour hike was pretty gruelling, especially for people who hadn’t done much moving until the volcano inspired them off their seats. 

Nonetheless, the hike was truly breathtaking and well worth the effort. Wedged between two glaciers – Eyjafjallajökull on the left and Mýrdalsjökull on the right – the route meandered up 1000 metres before the volcano showed itself. Although the volcano remained hidden for nearly the entire journey, the hike alone was nothing short of spectacular. It was cold and windy at times, but the sun was shining and the scenery was astounding.

Safety

On a final note, with the new eruption on the horizon, hopefully we can learn from the unfortunate casualties of the Fimmvörðuháls eruption. Far too many people tried to face the fierce winds and frost armed only with a pair of jeans, a light jacket and sneakers. The Icelandic Rescue Team had to lead a number of those people down the mountain – some of whom even showed signs of frostbite. Not to mention, the two people who lost their way and died of exposure. If being ostracized by the media is not enough to get you to dress appropriately and bring enough food and water when venturing into the mountains, there was your proof that Iceland’s nature is not to be taken lightly.

Here is a visual taste of the hike (which pending the course of our new volcano, might not be possible for some time):





On the way up, showing Eyjafjallajökull in the background.



Looking right to Mýrdalsjökull.



Approaching ash covered snow as we neared the elusive smoke, which can faintly be seen in this photo.



At 1000 metres, the Fimmvörðuháls Eruption.



Descending the mountain, overlooking the ocean.



A few hikers following the icy road down.



Almost 11 hours later, nearing the end of the hike. Feeling very accomplished.